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Tuesday
Dec292009

Visiting St. Petersburg, Russia in Wintertime

(Originally published in OverTime Magazine)

Traveling to St. Petersburg, Russia in the middle of February may seem insane to some, considering Russian winters are rumored to be some of the harshest on earth. Their freezing temperatures, fierce winds and epic snowfalls played a crucial part in defeating Napoleon’s armies in 1812. Those same conditions also helped keep the Germans at bay in WWII, during the 900-day siege at Leningrad.

But at the same time, as anyone who’s read or seen “Dr. Zhivago” or any of Dostoyevsky’s novels can tell you, the Russian winter also carries an elegant dignity to it, as well as some unexpected vibrancy. In St. Petersburg, winter brings some of the city’s most idyllic scenes: Barren tree branches looming over snow covered pastures in parks; sheets of ice covering the water in the many stately canals; and piles of snow and slush clinging to the stone buildings and sidewalks as if they were part of the decor.

More surprising still are the throngs of residents who ignore the cold and crowd the city’s streets and squares, both day and night. This is a cosmopolitan city, even in winter, and everywhere you look you’ll find crowds chatting in cafes or strolling down snow-covered sidewalks. That energy and sense of community makes St. Petersburg all the more inviting for exploration.

Also, most people visit St. Petersburg in summer so they can experience the region’s White Nights celebration. During this time, the city’s position near the Arctic Circle makes it possible to experience a few days of near-24-hourlong daylight, and visitors and locals alike use the opportunity celebrate the season and the city’s many cultural offerings.

While summer means more agreeable temperatures, as well as a cityscape filled with blooming flowers and foliage, it also means sharing St. Petersburg with thousands of other tourists.
That’s not the case with winter. The cold season brings considerably more affordable rates to hotel rooms and tours and allows you to experience the city’s many cultural offerings more intimately.

“In the summer, it is hard to find a room here,” said Victor, bell captain at the Petro Palace Hotel. “Winter, it is very slow though. We have 300 rooms but now [in winter] only 37 are full.”

 

 

 

Getting Situated

Founded in 1703 by Peter the Great, St. Petersburg stands on the Neva River tributary, making it, like Venice, a city set upon strings of islands and canals. (Like Venice, it’s also prone to heavy flooding, especially in the rainy late-summer season.) This is a city in love with its history. Nearly every monument found here attributes itself to some prominent role in Russia’s past, and many of the streets, squares and parks are named after important historical figures or events.
Architecturally, however, the city owes much debt to Paris -- no coincidence, considering the Francophilic nature of the Tsars. Buildings here, especially in the historic city center, look like they’ve been stripped from the streets of the French capital, and all the grand avenues here seem to point towards a majestic monument.

At night, this Parisian parallel gains greater perspective, as the city’s many sites light up for all to see and glimmer against the bleak wintry night sky. A walk past St. Isaac’s Cathedral after sundown proves particularly enchanting; if you didn’t know better, you’d swear you were nearing L’ Academie de Paris.

Nevsky Prospekt, the city’s main avenue, takes its name from Alexander Nevsky, a thirteenth-century Russian general who helped expand the country’s empire by leading forces over several Germanic tribes, but its inspiration also seems drawn from the French, namely Paris’ Champ Ellysees. Running north to south from one segment of the Neva to another, the bustling thoroughfare offers a home to hundreds of shops, cafes, cinemas, restaurants, tourist attractions and more, as well as some wonderful people-watching. If you’re looking for souvenirs, Russian foods like vodka or caviar, traditional clothing, Matreshka dolls (nesting dolls), evening folk music and dance shows and more, chances are you’ll find it here.

In fact, most of the St. Petersburg’s cultural high points can be found in the city center or along Nevsky Prospekt, and most are within walking distance of one another. (The Tsars’ summer palaces, which sit about 45 minutes outside the city, may require a taxi or guided tour for access.)  

 

 

 

Majestic Museum

St. Petersburg’s star attraction is the State Hermitage Museum (www.hermitagemuseum.org), a sprawling six-building complex that just happens to be the second-largest fine arts museum in the world (behind the Louvre, in Paris). The museum itself used to be the winter palace of the Russian Tsars, and much of its original splendor has been kept alive here, making a tour of the building often as spellbinding as the collection of art housed inside.

Visitors here literally can step into the shoes of the Tsars and imagine what life was like for these rulers. Walk up and down the many grand staircases in the palace. Marvel at elaborate stucco work surrounding many of the passageways and doorways, much of it encased in gold leaf. Stroll through rooms of intricate granite and marble work. Saunter down hallways that stretch for hundreds of yards, many of them covered with ornate murals and frescos. This is regal living at its finest, an experience as opulent as Versailles, but without all intentional ostentatiousness. Some highlights of the Hermitage include the Peacock Clock (an animatronic wonder given to the Tsars in the late 19th century from the King of Prussia), the War Gallery of 1812 (a vast room containing portraits of nearly ever general who helped lead the Russians over Napolean) and the Malachite Room (featuring enormous columns and vases made of the stone, as well as an assortment of Faberge eggs).

“Make a point to look at the floors while you’re there,” recommended one traveler. “I’ve never seen such beautiful wood and stonework.”

On top of this splendor is the museum’s art collection, which was started by Catherine the Great in the 1700s and now consists of more than 3 million items, 150,000 of which are displayed at one time inside the museum. Here, you’ll find rooms devoted to the works of Gaugin, Titian, Picasso, Rubens, Van Dyck, British art, French Impressionism, Egyptian and Greek artifacts and much more.
The entire complex sits inside Palace Square (or Dvortsovaya Ploschad in Russian), a sprawling area which connects the Hermitage with the General Staff Building (where the Tsarist armies once trained) and the Admiralty (where the Russian navy was once headquartered). In its center, you’ll find the towering Alexander Column, a 185-foot stone pillar made of a single piece of stone (an exhibit in nearby St. Isaac’s Cathedral shows how the column was hoisted into place) that -- like many of the city’s other monuments -- commemorates the country’s victory over Napoleon.

 

 

Other Museums and Cultural Offerings

Given the heady reputation held by the Hermitage, you would expect the rest of St. Petersburg’s cultural offerings to pale in comparison. But that’s not the case. Like Paris, this city wears its cultural pride on its sleeve and invites all who visit to delve deeper into it, no matter the season.

Just a short walk from the Hermitage and Palace Square is the city’s other cultural behemoth, the State Museum of Russian Art (or Russian Museum for short, www.rusmuseum.ru/eng/). Founded in 1898 by Nicholas II, the last Tsar of Russia, the museum houses the country’s largest collection of nationally drawn art, occupying three wings of the Mikhailovsky Palace. Whereas the Hermitage is stately and elegant, this museum boasts a more playful, down-to-earth side, hosting exhibits by both modern and classical Russian artists alongside its main collection. Most surprising here is witnessing how Russian art, especially over the last two centuries, seems to have evolved in a similar manner as American art. Make a point to visit the rooms devoted to modernist and cubist styles for proof.

Continuing the city’s playful cultural nature is the monolithic Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, just a block away from the Russian Museum. This towering cathedral, very Russian in design thanks to its five onion-shaped domes and bright coloring, was modeled after Moscow’s Kremlin and is built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was assassinated in March 1881. Inside, visitors will find all the walls and ceilings (including the inside of those onion-shaped domes) covered with ornate mosaics, some of which stretch hundreds of feet in height.

The city’s other grand church, St. Isaac’s Cathedral, is located a few blocks to the left of the Admiralty. This is the third-largest cathedral in the world, behind St. Peter’s at the Vatican and St. Paul’s in London, and in its heyday it could accommodate approximately 14,000 people for mass. Built in 1818 by Tsar Alexander I as a commemoration of (what else?) his defeat of Napoleon, the interior is cavernous and every bit as ornate as the grand halls inside the Hermitage. Frescos and mosaics of religious scenes, including panels that stand well over 30 feet high, line the walls and ceilings, many of them breathtaking in their epic scope. Also inside are several exhibits, which highlight the cathedral’s construction and history. If you’re legs feel up to it, make a point to climb the 260 steps to the top of observation deck, located around the church’s dome, and take in the grand views of the city available there. Be warned though that the wind chill will leave you shivering.

 

 

 

Military Past

St. Petersburg’s other great attraction is the Peter and Paul Fortress, located across the Neva from the Hermitage. (Just take one of the two bridges crossing the river and head for the walled fortress with a golden spire in its center -- you can’t miss it, really.)

Built in 1704 as a stronghold against the Swedish, with whom Russia was at war at the time, the complex never saw battle and instead became one of Russia’s most notorious political prisons. Some of its former tenants include legendary authors like Dostoyevsky, Chernyshevsky and Gorky, as well as Vladimir Lenin’s brother, who attempted to kill Tsar Alexander III and was executed here soon after he was incarcerated.  

The centerpiece of the fortress is the Peter and Paul Cathedral, a more modestly sized (at least compared to the city’s other offerings) but no less ornate church that happens to be the city’s first religious meeting place. In addition to its glorious Baroque architecture and stunning frescos, it also holds the sarcophagi of all of the Russian Tsars, from Peter the Great through Nicholas II -- a feature that also adds an air of creepiness to your visit.

Also on hand in the Fortress are a dozen or so small museums dedicated to topics like Russia’s military past, Russian space exploration and the national mint. Particularly charming is the 28-room exhibit devoted to the evolution of the city of St. Petersburg, which tracks its history from its Norse roots through its communist heyday and its current role as Russia’s cultural capital.
 

Don’t Forget the Communism

With all of these cultural and historical sites around you, it’s often easy to forget the city’s prominent role in Russia’s communist past. Delve a little deeper, especially if you venture outside the city center, and those aspects become hard to miss.

A short distance north of Pulkovo International Airport is the monolithic Monument to The Heroic Defenders of Leningrad, which occupies an entire city block. The structure, devised by Stalin himself in 1951 and completed in 1970, pays homage to soldiers and citizens who survived the city’s 900-day holdout over the Germans in World War II. More than 2 million died in the battle and the massive famine that followed it, and this monument celebrates their spirit, strength, endurance and hardships.

Further north stands a large statue of Vladimir Lenin, who gestures out towards you from before the imposing Stalinist architecture of Finland Station. The site commemorates a spot where Lenin gave one of his greatest speeches -- from an armored car, no less.

Beyond that lay long stretches of communist housing projects, each one uniformed and colorless in appearance. Though several Western business signs can be seen among the drab facades, like those for McDonald’s and KFC, they still do little to inject life into these dreary surroundings.

What’s ironic is that these dwellings, once home to the city’s poor workers and soldiers, now come with some of St. Petersburg’s highest real estate asking prices.

“This is a very highly desirable area to live,” said Anna Lebedeva, a guide in St. Petersburg.  “The buildings have very high ceilings and are well-built. It’s very expensive to live here now.”

For those who do not wish to venture past the city center, but still want to experience some of St. Petersburg’s communist history, visit Decemberists’ Square, located across the street from St. Isaac’s Cathedral, or Palace Square, in front of the Hermitage. Both played integral parts in the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917, which brought down Russia’s Tsarist regime and led to the start of the country’s socialist era.  

Dining

Russians take their national cuisine very seriously, and as a result nearly every restaurant or café menu you come across will feature classics like Borscht (beet soup, served either hot or cold and with or without meat), blinis (crepes served with various savory or sweet fillings), beef or venison stroganoff, caviar, pelmini (meat dumplings) and other traditional fare. Even the ever-increasing number of sushi restaurants popping up around the city offer these items.

It’s hearty, stick-to-your-ribs fare, often loaded with cream or butter, that suits the country’s cold climates well but may sit heavily in Western stomachs. Quality varies depending on where you visit, but as a rule of thumb remember that places that specialize in one sort of cuisine (like the aforementioned sushi restaurants) tend to offer poorer versions of traditional Russian dishes, and vice versa.

Also, expect to find vodka, served by the glass or carafe, at nearly all Russian dining establishments. Russians often shoot vodka along with their meal, both as a means to enhance the festive nature of the dining experience and to aid in digestion. Toasts abound during mealtime, especially during dinner, and it’s not uncommon for a table of strangers to buy shots for everyone nearby. It’s considered rude to refuse a toast once you’ve been invited into one. If your not much of a drinker or do not like vodka, accept the toast and sip a little of the liquid as a gesture of thanks -- the locals will appreciate it.

If Russian food doesn’t agree with you, know that St. Petersburg also offers a wide variety of ethnic dining options, including fine eateries serving specialties from Georgia (which is like a mixture of Russian and Arabic cuisine), Indonesia, Armenia, China, France, American, England and more. Most of these places tend to be affordable and they usually provide fine alternatives to the often-heavy Russian entrée.

Also important: Café and restaurant experiences differ widely here. Cafes are informal places for quick meals and usually offer simplistic menus. Restaurants are more uppity affairs where guests can expect to spend a majority of their evening; they usually feature more upscale menus as well as live entertainment.

Night Life


Like most great European cities, St. Petersburg offers countless options for nighttime entertainment, including a bevy of bars, nightclubs, live music venues, theater and more.

Those looking to experience some high culture should head to the famous Mariisky Theater (http://www.mariinsky.ru/en), the city’s grand palace of opera and ballet. Built in 1860 and named after the wife of Tsar Alexander II, the theater has premiered works by such legendary composers as Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky and Rimsky-Korsakov and has been the home to the world famous Kirov Ballet since its inception. Nightly opera and ballet performances are offered, and appropriate dress is required.

The Mussorgsky State Academic Opera and Ballet Theater, named after the popular Russian composer, doesn’t share in the Mariisky’s celebrated legacy, but that doesn’t mean you’ll find lesser-quality performances there. Built in the 1920s as a means to promote communist Russia’s cultural talent, today the theater serves as the city’s premier arts venues for visiting and touring companies.

Language

Despite the obvious spread of Western influence, most Russians still do not speak much English, and outside of your hotel staff, you are unlikely to find many who speak more than a word or two of English -- not even in such popular tourist-driven spots as the State Hermitage Museum.
A Russian phrasebook purchased from your local bookstore, along with some good natured gesturing and pointing, should help you with the basics, like ordering food at restaurants or purchasing admission tickets. However, if this grows tiresome or frustrating, or if you plan to venture off the beaten path, you may prefer to hire a guide, either for the day or for the length of your visit. Not only will this simplify communicative problems, but your guide may also point you towards locals-only places you might normally avoid because of the language barrier.

Also important: Please note that despite their surly facades, Russian people are very friendly and open to foreigners, and they are eager to help you learn about their country’s customs and history. They will accommodate you as best they can, especially if you can utter a few words of Russian in return. Best phrase to learn first: “Spaseeba,” which means “Thank you.”

SIDEBARS

Hotels

Grand Hotel Europe

This ornate (and expensive) luxury hotel rivals the décor of the Hermitage for extravagance. It sits a half-block away from one of the busier intersections of Nevsky Prospekt and is mere meters from Gostiny Dvor, the city’s mammoth high-end shopping arcade.
http://www.grand-hotel-europe.com/

Petro Palace Hotel

Though less ornate than Grand Hotel, this homey, affordable establishment sits just 5 minutes by foot from the Hermitage and half a block from St. Isaac’s Cathedral.
http://www.petropalacehotel.com/

Dining

L’Europe

Often cited by local presses as the best restaurant in St. Petersburg, this opulent establishment, located inside Grand Hotel Europe, serves meticulously prepared French and Russian vuisine, along with some fine fusion dishes. Very elegant, but also very pricey. The Sunday jazz brunch is worth the hefty price tag. Reservations recommended.
http://www.grand-hotel-europe.com/

Restaurant Baron

A modest fine-dining restaurant, located inside Petro Palace Hotel, serving well-prepared, reasonably priced Russian specialties. The pelmini are outstanding, as is the solianka (lemon and beef soup). The Russian folk music show is an interesting divergence (especially the man in the bear suit) but not worth planning your evening around.
http://www.petropalacehotel.com/

Valhall

Located at 22/24 Nevsky Prospekt, this Viking themed restaurant (the walls are literally covered with armor and furs) serves some terrific, reasonably priced grilled meat dishes, as well as delicious Russian plates like freshly made blinis with salmon caviar and smoked sturgeon salad.

Teramok

This local fast food chain, with many locations throughout the city, specializes in freshly prepared blinis and soups, nothing more. Try the wild mushroom and cream blini with a cup of hot borscht with meat for an affordable, surprisingly hearty, delicious, pretense-free dining experience.

Kilikia


This humble eatery, set just a few blocks behind the Gostiny Dvor shopping arcade, sits alongside a majestic canal and serves sumptuous Armenian food. Try the mutton soup with potatoes (pito) or the kebabs made of beef and crushed walnuts. The waitstaff is very accommodating to non-Russian-speaking visitors.

James Cook Pub and Cafe

Divided into two parts, the café section of this eatery is well-suited for those wanting only a quick bite before hitting the nearby sites (like the Hermitage or Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood). The pub features a more relaxed atmosphere, some delicious, well-prepared food and an outstanding beer selection. Try the Beef Stroganoff or the grilled tenderloin dinner.

Guides

Anna Lebedeva
Office: +8-812-594-3772
Cell: +7-921-33-99122
voyager@mail.wplus.net

Maria Rose Tours
+7-812-575-5082
http://www.mariarosetours.com/

Currency

Russia’s national currency is the rouble (also spelled ruble). On average, one US dollar is equivalent to about 25 roubles. Credit cards are accepted at many sit-down restaurants but not at smaller establishments or at many of the city’s attractions (including most churches).

Traveling to:


You will need both a valid passport and visa to travel to Russia, which makes the destination out of reach for those wanting to head there spontaneously. Tourist visas require a minimum of 4 weeks to process, and passports can take more than three months to get. Tour companies will help you get your visa and hotel voucher (required for the visa – essentially it shows where you will be staying while in Russia). Those traveling independently may want to contact services like Russia House ((http://www.russiahouse.org/)  or American Passport Express (http://americanpassport.com/) to expedite visa processing. Note: Both services charge fees for quick turnarounds.

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